While Black Girl World Traveller is internationally focused, we consider all forms of travel to be travel. Consequently, there is so much rich history right here in the United States. We took a journey across the United States South to learn more about the history of Civil Rights in the United States in June - July 2023. Our itinerary went Jackson, Mississippi →Birmingham, Alabama→Montgomery, Atlanta, Georgia.
Jackson, Mississippi
Jackson, Mississippi was the first stop on the tour and the most beloved. I had been to several southern states before but nothing compares to Mississippi. Nothing compares to Mississippi because it truly is the “dirty South”. What I mean by that, is that the heat is like no other, the accents have a specific twang, and watermelon is plentiful. We opted for breakfast at Sugar’s Place and it was a true delight. Large portions, food that was seasoned extremely well, and outside seating with plenty of southern sun to go around. I immediately knew I was in the right place when I was greeted by a cheerful cashier with lots of jokes. The food was delicious and was a nice welcome into the South.
We then made our way to Smith Robertson Museum & Cultural Center which according to their website, is home to historical artifacts that educate and enlighten the public about the roles of African-Americans in Mississippi, the Southeast, and America’s Civil Rights Movement(s). Through numerous photographs, periodicals, artifacts, temporary and permanent exhibits, the museum strives to communicate the trials of the past in cohesive, creative, and academic ways that inform and inspire the present.
The museum was fabulous. I went in ignorant to the monumental role that Missisissippi played during the Civil Rights Movement. Fortunately, I left knowing just how important Mississippi still is today to modern day civil rights. The museum was once a school attended by the literary great Richard Wright, author of, A Native Son. Because we had booked a private tour we were able to ask our guide about the enduring effects of slavery, Jim Crow segregation, and racial terror in Mississippi. From what we could gather, not much has changed besides the access to information. Mississippi is known for lynching black people, a truth that still holds to this day. Mississippi is the poorest state in the United States.
On a more positive note, the museum is filled with old telephones, medicine, doctors offices equipment, pianos, children’s toys, etc all from the twentieth century. If only the world could see what we saw. If you are ever in Jackson, Mississippi, Smith Robertson Museum is a must visit.
Next up was check-in. We opted to stay at the Westin. For dinner, we opted to go to Elvie’s. The food was good but there isn’t much else to say there, only that you will need a reservation since the restaurant is pretty popular.
The next day we went to COFO or the Council of Federated Organizations on the campus of Jackson State University for a guided tour with Christina Thomas, a scholar in residence. COFO was composed of several different member organizations in Mississippi including the Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee (SNCC), the Congress of Racial Equality (CORE) the Southern Leadership Conference (SCLC), the National Association for Advancement of Colored People (NAACP) and local organizations. COFO was most active during the 1960s, what most would consider the height of the Civil Rights Movement in the United States. COFO organized the 1963 Freedom Vote, and the 1964 Mississippi Summer Project also known as Freedom Summer.
The local grassroots activism in Mississippi was strong. The original phones, documents and memorabilia used by civil rights activists are still present at COFO today. While small in size, one could only imagine the room being filled with activists as they worked together to organize mock elections to combat black voter disenfranchisement and to get black voters registered despite white terror and intimidation. After learning about the history of COFO we drove down the street to the main campus of Jackson State University, a historically black college (HBCU) in Jackson, MS.
Unfortunately, Jackson State University was a site of more racial terror. In 1970, police opened fire on JSU students, killing two and injuring many more. This tour was to say the least, daunting. It is one thing to read about civil rights, the marches, the murders, the suppression, etc but it is a whole different level to be in the places where people once died, risked their lives, and were terrorized.
The tour of COFO was phenomenal, but it was also incredibly overwhelming to feel the pain in the space. However it is only through learning the truth that we can not only move forward but be empowered to fight for change.
After our tour of COFO, we headed to the home of Medgar Evers. Medgar Evers is arguably the most famous person from Mississippi and a beloved hero. At the time of our visit, his home and the memorial across the street from it were still under construction so we were not able to go in.
Medgar Evers was a local activist and member of the NAACP who was shot and killed in the driveway of his home on June 12th, 1963. Upon driving through the neighborhood, you will see that it is a working class neighborhood that is still occupied by residents. The house is a gorgeous teal color which they have kept up to date. While we could not go into the home, we saw children running around and playing in the street which made me feel at home. If you are in Jackson, Mississippi please stop by to pay respect to him and his family’s home.
After visiting the home of Medgar Evers, our last stop of the day was to the Mississippi Civil rights Museum which also shares space with the Mississippi General history museum.
A painting across the street from the museum.
A painting across the street from the museum.
I have ever been to. 25 countries, 35ish U.S. states and The Mississippi Civil Rights Museum is the best one I have ever been to.The museum is divided into several different rooms that focus on a time period in Mississippi’s history. Each room highlights the long struggle to guarantee equal treatment under the law in Mississippi. Perhaps the most important moment of the entire trip happened in the museum.
While at the museum met Hezekiah Watkins who is a survivor of Parchman penitentiary. He was sent there as a child after being arrested during integration of public transportation at only 13 years old. He went into great detail about what was done to him and told us his experience was horrific. Parchman is known for their human rights abuses and is considered to be one of the worst prisons in the United States. After hearing Hezekiah’s story I was overcome with sadness. He stated that not much has changed in the 50 years since his arrest, besides the opportunity to earn more money. The idea that “nothing has changed” was a common theme that we heard on our trip kept coming up time and time again. After visiting Jackson, Mississippi I couldn't agree more. You will have to visit the museum for yourself to decide which stories intrigue you the most and which ones call you to action. Hezekiah’s story stays in my soul to this day and I’m so happy that he shared his story with us.
We ended our night at Johnny T’s Bistro and Blues Bar. The food and drinks are delicious and if you are there on the right night you’ll hear live music.
Birmingham, Alabama
After Jackson, we drove four hours to Birmingham, Alabama which proved to be a different type of southern experience. Birmingham is perhaps one of the most well known cities for Civil Rights in the United States. It is also known as the Pittsburgh of the south due to the steel industry. We opted to stay at the Marriott closer to Hoover Alabama and the stay was average. I had to switch rooms due to the air conditioning not working and the water pressure was not great in either room. I’d opt for a 5 star hotel the next time and pay the extra price.
For breakfast we went to Red Cat Coffee for coffee and donuts. The donuts were delicious.
We started our day at 16th Street Baptist church. 16th street Baptist church was bombed on September 15th, 1963. Four young girls were killed and several more were injured. While the church is still active today, it has been partially converted into a museum so that folks remember the history of racial terror. It is not so hard to imagine that only 60 years ago getting ready for Sunday school was a death sentence for young children. We must learn history so that we do not let it repeat itself. 16th Street Baptist hosts daily guided tours.
Directly across the street from the church is Kelly Ingram Park. The park has a statue of Martin Luther King Jr. and has some local history which you should check out. Directly across the street from the park and 16th street Baptist church is the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute. The institute was started to educate individuals on the history of civil rights in Birmingham. I particularly enjoyed learning about the life of Fred Shuttlesworth. Shuttlesworth was known to be demanding in the pursuit of justice and did not adopt the stereotypical “respectable black person" persona of that time.
The Institute takes you on a journey that starts in one room behind a wall. Visitors are able to walk through and see the artifacts from Jim Crow including separate and unequal classrooms, city buses, photographs from the time period, and historical timelines that highlight success and challenges both federally and locally in the fight for civil rights. This museum did a great job of remembering and preserving history as it happened and provides a space for visitors to draw parallels to the modern struggles both in the U.S. and abroad.
We ended our night at Chez Fonfon for dinner. The food was good but be prepared to spend a pretty penny for dinner as it is on the pricer side
After a full day in Birmingham, the next morning we drove 90 minutes to Montgomery, Alabama also known as the Heart of Dixie. We opted to stay at the Staybridge Suites where the staff was friendly.
Upon arrival in Montgomery, we went to the Legacy Museum: From Enslavement to Mass Incarceration. This museum was founded by the Equal Justice Initiative which is led by Bryan Stevenson. The museum displays the history of slavery and racism in America. The most impactful part of the museum was seeing the faces of those stolen from Africa as a part of the Atlantic slave trade. The exhibit was created by an African sculptor and it moved me to tears. Another moving part of the museum was hearing the stories of individuals who are currently impacted by mass incarceration.
If nothing else, we learned that everyone has a story and some are just so awful that it makes you feel helpless.
Coupled with the museum we also toured the National Memorial for Peace and Justice, which houses the physical markers of those who have been lynched in America. The museum is a living document so as more truth is uncovered the museum is committed to adding more statutes to honor those who were lynched. Free shuttles are available between the two or you can drive in between the museum and memorial.
Each pillar is dedicated to a person who has been lynched in the United States.
After the museum and memorial I felt demoralized. There is so much pain, hatred, and racism in this country. After visiting the two sites I couldn’t help but think that slavery has transformed into modern day mass incarceration and how there is a concerted effort to keep the status qup. There is a concerted effort to keep racism, white supremacy, exploitation, and colonization going. Daunting. Empowering to want to fight. But incredibly hard to stomach.
The next day we went to the Rosa Parks Museum which is a part of Troy University. The museum was a timed tour where we were able to learn about important civil rights leaders in Montgomery, Alabama and watch educational videos. Behind a wall was an interactive exhibit that simulated the event that Rosa Park is most famous for when she refused to give up her seat on a Montgomery Public bus. The rest of the museum goes into extreme detail of how Civil Rights leaders were able to sustain a 13 month boycott of the Montgomery Public bus system until they integrated the bus systems.
A special shoutout must be given to Jo-Ann Robinson who coordinated the initial boycott by sending, typing and distributing a mass notice to black residents in Montgomery, Alabama to boycott the buses immediately following the arrest of Rosa Parks. Jo Ann Robinson is a national treasure and should be more widely known and celebrated.
We were not able to visit Dexter King Memorial Church in Montgomery due to the holiday season but if you are in Montgomery, we recommend visiting.
Atlanta, Georgia
We ended the day by driving 2.5 hours to Atlanta, Georgia and checking into Georgia Tech Hotel & Conference Center. We found the hotel to be very comfortable with a delicious breakfast.
Our first stop was the National Center for Civil and Human Rights. The museum focuses on civil rights in the United States and abroad. Additionally there is an exhibit on Martin Luther King Jr.
Here are some impactful quotes from the museum:
I found the MLK Jr. exhibit to be particularly impactful as it has the original excerpts from his “I have a dream” speech. A fun fact that I learned was that the city of Atlanta raised 20 million dollars to be able to secure documents, and artifacts from the King estate.
We were also able to visit the home of Martin Luther King Jr. home, Ebenezer Baptist Church, and The King Center. All are within a few blocks of each other and all highlight how important Martin Luther King Jr. was and how all the work he did was dedicated to serving others. If you ever get a chance to visit Ebenezer Baptist Church, please sit down and listen to Dr. King’s sermons.
While we did not get a chance to visit the African-American Panoramic Experience (APEX) Museum we recommend visiting if you have the chance. The museum is devoted to African-American history as a means of promoting cultural awareness and the social contributions of African-Americans in Georgia. We ended our time in Atlanta at Delbar Middle Eastern Restaurant. The cuisine has a lof of Iranian influence, and we later learned the owner is from Iran. The food was the best we had on our entire tour of the U.S. South and we highly recommend it.
Overall, our Civil Rights Tour left me heartbroken at the history, eager to learn more, and a realization that we must act now. Part two of our Civil Rights Tour will include Savannah & Augusta, Georgia and Coluumbia & Charleston, South Carolina.
I am so honored to have bore witness to the struggles our ancestors faced so that I could have the freedoms that I have. However, now more than ever it is time that we take our roles as leaders in history and ensure a future for generations to come. We all have a responsibility to do better, be better, act better and to do the work.
Additional Resources:
While we didn’t visit these places here are some restaurants to potentially check out in Birmingham, Alabama.
While we didn’t visit these places here are some restaurants to potentially check out in Montgomery, Alabama.
48 hours in black owned Montgomery, AL
Greg’s Breakfast Bar, Tuesday- Sunday, (334) 221-0891
Brenda's Bar-B-Que Pit, Closed Sundays and Mondays
Jan’s Beach House Grill, Closed Sundays
The Seafood Bistro, Closed Sundays
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